Growing a Beard

We woke up just before six the next morning to watch the sunrise. The amazing view of the sun rising over the village below us together with wild parrots flying around us was truly an unforgettable experience.

On our way to Jaipur we saw all kind of wild animals such as peacocks, monkeys, parrots and other birds as well as elephants (not wild of course). After a couple of hours of driving we got to Jaipur and first stop was the impressive Amber Fort 10 km outside the city. We met a guide who the car company had arranged for us and we were soon up for our first big tourist trap in this city full of tourists in a hurry with pockets full of cash. We were taken to a textile “whole-sale” shop and at the door we were told that we were allowed to buy not more than three pieces (!). Finally inside after promising not to buy more than three pieces, since this shop is only for local whole-buyers, the first thing I saw was a big sign in English, which would be the language of choice of the shop owners in the bazaars, saying in red letters: ‘DO NOT ASK FOR DISCOUNT’.
This place must have been one of the most complicated traps to physically get out of. We were not allowed to leave from the door we actually had entered from and had to leave along a tricky labyrinth packed with people trying to sell you everything money can buy. Funny thing was that I, who was walking quickly not slowed down by the shouts of “Have a look at the silver/gold/art/etc sir!!” followed by Joanne and Simon looking like prisoners on the run, took some of the sales people by surprise as they were sleeping in the dark rooms of the shops. Experienced as they are they jumped up in a flash and had the place all lit up in microseconds, very impressive start-up time there, but unfortunately, for them, we were out of the room faster than the sight of Janet Jackson’s right nipple on Super Bowl.

Finally walking on safe ground, the face of the guide was priceless as he asked: “What happened? Is something wrong!?” Maybe I forgot to mention this very important fact; Guides receive hefty commissions from shop owners and restaurants when they bring in (buying) customers!! We decided not to listen to his tip regarding a “Multi-Cuisine” restaurant and instead let the Lonely Planet show the way, and again it didn’t let us down. After lunch at Niro’s and later drinks at the mega fancy Polo Bar of the Rambagh Palace, I checked into my room at the excellent Hotel Arya Niwas to rest after another hectic day.

After a huge breakfast in the garden of the hotel we went to see the City Palace where I took a lot of pictures and bought some cool paintings, which I found for 200 rupees cheaper at the shop of the hotel later in the evening, where I bought even more stuff for no money (I hate that damn guide!). We shook him off with no tip and headed to Anokhi for some good karma shopping (note the ‘Jaipur Visitor Warning’ on their homepage!). The products sold by Anokhi are produced locally in Jaipur at an ethical factory build on the grounds of an organic farm. They also have a serene café next to the boutique. Later we saw the sun set down over Jaipur from Nahargarh Fort. We had a great dinner at Four Season, city’s best restaurant according to our book. The place was packed with Indian families which is always a good sign and we were lucky to find a table, the bill came out at 450 rup for all of us.

Lonely Planet; we salute you!

Breakfast at Hotel Arya Niwas

Finally back from my round trip in Rajasthan. Together with Joanne and Simon we traveled along the Golden Triangle visiting Alwar, Jaipur, Agra and finally Delhi. It has been a truly amazing trip, my first look of the rural Indian life, and I’ve seen numerous of unforgettable sights.
We started our trip on Saturday 6 o’clock in the morning in Delhi where we were picked up by a driver and we started driving south towards Alwar while the city was in the process of waking up. I had been busy at work and living in a 5+ star hotel during my five first days here so this was my first true look of India, and to be honest I was quite taken back. Driving along the shabby streets around the airport I couldn’t help but feeling uneasy and the huge lack of sleep didn’t make it easier. After 45 minutes of driving with an, for the moment, annoying sound of Punjabi music coming through the speakers we arrived to the first tourist holes along this trip. Outside this road side diner were two kids, the girl not more than 3 years wearing more makeup and fake jewellery than any other kid I’ve seen, trying to sing and dance and asking for money from the westerners, that is most of the people inside the place.
After approximately two hours of driving we were surrounded by beautiful landscape with farmers and children playing along the sides together with buffalos and camels and villagers getting ready for the celebration of Diwali and the approaching Eid Ul-Fitr. We all felt much better by now after our nap and were enjoying the music and the views and after another while we finally arrived at our first destination.

The Hill Fort Keseroli, outside Alwar, is one of the beautiful ‘non hotels’ in the Neemrana chain and is the oldest heritage accommodation site in India dated back to the 14th century. With breathtaking views, garden full of flowers, tastefully decorated rooms and the best Matar Paneer and dessert buffet I’ve tasted so far, I cannot say enough good things about this place, so please if you ever travel to India, make sure to stay in one of these forts since it will be a truly unforgettable experience.

The fort was lit up in the evening by candles and lights in the true Diwali fashion and there was a ceremony at sunset with the local priest singing chants and blessing the guests who were mostly Indians with the exception of the three of us and an American couple living in Dubai and working with promotion of different kind of arts to ‘bring some soul’ to this fairly young and modern city through their project ArtWorks. We were quite fascinated by their experiences, such as working as a costume designer on Broadway, and were listening with excitement to their stories about living in Hong Kong and Nigeria in the 60’s, or the last time they had Morgan Freeman over for dinner in Dubai…